Liège is one of those cities people adore or detest. Lounged along the Meuse River about 90km east of Brussels, it’s the Ardennes’ biggest city and the capital of its own territory. Industrial, rotting and grainy, it’s the sort of place that takes time to get to know – there are peculiar charms and some old cherished quarters, but they’re not immediately apparent. The city’s museums hold an affluent display of medieval religious art, the likes of which you won’t see elsewhere in Belgium – for that alone Liège merits an all night stop. Fans of Inspector Maigret may also want to pay respect here, as Liège is the birthplace of writer Georges Simenon.