Set on a plain mounting tenderly from the sea to a series of wooded hills, Barcelona is Spain's most multi-ethnic city and one of the Mediterranean's busiest ports. Restaurants, bars and clubs are always crowded, as is the seashore in summer. The city's ultramodern chefs whisk up a storm that has even the French reaching for superlatives. One would get a feeling that this city it's devoted entirely to hedonism, but it's a hard-working, vibrant place hoping to place itself in the forerunner of 21st-century Europe with an awareness of scientific and biomedical business. Barcelona has been contravention ground in art, architecture and style since the late 19th century. From the wonders of Modernism to the contemporary wonders of today, from Picasso to the likes of Susana Solano, the racing heart of Barcelona has hardly skipped a beat.